By sheer fluke, I 've come across a really amazing Cote Rotie producer. Domaine Levet don't go for single vineyard wines or more modern, blockbuster fruity styles. They seem to be producing a very old style of the Northern Rhone classic.
Winemakers used to concentrate on representing all of their vineyards in the final blends. That way you would have the tannic Cote Brune Syrah blended with, say, softer, more perfumed stuff from the Cote Blonde. Some people believe that this was the truest expression of Cote Rotie terroir.
Commercially, 'old timer' Cote Rotie was not dramatically successful. There was actually more money in growing apricot than grapes for many years around the 1970s. It was not until people like Guigal started making his single vineyard 'icon' wines (so beloved of Robert Parker) that people really started giving the region the attention that it deserved.
The newly found public taste for 'modern' Cote Rotie encouraged many growers to grub up their old uncloned Serine (Syrah) vines and use more productive, fashionable versions of the grape. Gradually, many wine makers got further and further from what the original wines were all about. Finesse, from what I can work out.
There's a UK company called AB Vintners who are selling the Levet wines. They have been kind enough to let me order a bottle each of the two top blends (Maestria and Peroline) when the 2005s arrive. Hurragh!